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Sunday, December 30, 2012

Wagah Border (India-Pakistan)

Wagah border is the only road border crossing between Pakistan and India and lies between Amritsar (Punjab, India) and Lahore (Punjab, Pakistan). Among other things, it is known for its "lowering of the flags" ceremony when both countries retrieve their flags and close the border (for the night) in a military practice that the security forces have jointly followed since 1959. On both sides of the border, huge crowds gather to watch the theatrics, sing patriotic songs, wave flags and be entertained. On the Indian side, the crowd kept shouting "Hindustan Zindabad", a nationalistic slogan which translates to "Long live India". I didn't need a dictionary to get the gist of it.  

It is hard to describe the actual ceremony - it's a combination of pomp, theatrics, overly exaggerated marches (that border acrobatics!) and undoubtedly, a quest of each country to out-do the other. It was hugely entertaining and one of the highlights of my trip, but the environment was not the most peaceful and friendly - a far cry from how one feels when passing through the Peace Arch between WA and BC, for example. 

I'd heard that if I brought my passport along, I could sit in a VIP section reserved for foreigners, which generally offered a better view. I normally dislike the concept of foreigners getting preferential treatment, but because the crowds were huge and I was alone, I didn't think twice before taking advantage of this perk. Unfortunately, the restriction was not very well enforced and our section did get overtaken by spilling neighboring sections, so it was hard to get a clear view and take decent photographs...



Odd collection of activities; # 6 is particularly telling...


The border guards were HUGE. I loved seeing this scene with the border guide escorting an old lady to her seat...she comes to his elbow!


Tall and dashing...and pretty ridiculously dress, IMO


I felt so short!


Cheering crowds


Cheering crowds


A guard more-or-less successfully directing the crowds


Cheering crowds; India-side of the border guarded by armed personnel (on top)


Pakistani side of the border


India


Loved! :-)


The lady guards opened the ceremony. They were also very tall.


School girls waiting for the ceremony to begin


Show-offs


His leg is only half-way up...


Loved! :-)


 High kick! Another guard behind him synchronizes his kick perfectly, as they pass each other


...


Both flags coming down. The crowd in the background is on the Pakistani side. Unlike on the Indian side, men and women are divided in separate sections.

Closing of the gates (red headpieces = Indian; black headpieces = Pakistani)


Welcome sign on the Indian side of the border


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